﻿1
00:00:07,240 --> 00:00:11,800
位于苏格兰北部海岸附近，一群小岛屿
Lying off the northern coast of Scotland, a group of small islands

2
00:00:11,800 --> 00:00:15,800
聚集在一起，这里是大西洋和北海
cluster together where the Atlantic Ocean and the North Sea

3
00:00:15,800 --> 00:00:20,240
在汹涌的湍流和狂野的水域中交汇相遇。
meet in a maelstrom of turbulent currents and wild water.

4
00:00:21,400 --> 00:00:23,200
这70个岛屿中的每一个
Each of the 70 islands

5
00:00:23,200 --> 00:00:25,880
都有自己独特的身份
has a special identity of its own

6
00:00:25,880 --> 00:00:29,120
但它们统称为奥克尼群岛
but collectively they are known as The Orkneys

7
00:00:29,120 --> 00:00:32,120
并且它们共享的历史和遗产使其感觉
and they share a history and heritage that make them feel

8
00:00:32,120 --> 00:00:35,920
与大陆或西海岸的岛屿截然不同。
quite different from the mainland or the islands of the west coast.

9
00:00:37,600 --> 00:00:42,160
在这个系列中，我正在环游苏格兰群岛，
In this series, I'm on a Grand Tour of the Scottish Islands,

10
00:00:42,160 --> 00:00:44,120
探访北部的奥克尼群岛，
visiting the Orkneys in the north,

11
00:00:44,120 --> 00:00:48,040
并远行至西南部的吉厄岛。
and travelling as far as the island of Gigha in the southwest.

12
00:00:51,120 --> 00:00:53,360
一代又一代的旅行者出发去探索
Generations of travellers have set out to explore

13
00:00:53,360 --> 00:00:55,360
苏格兰群岛的魔力。
the magic of the Scottish Islands.

14
00:00:56,760 --> 00:01:00,320
我正追随他们的脚步，探索散布在
I'm following in their footsteps, exploring remote

15
00:01:00,320 --> 00:01:04,480
我们海岸线周围的偏远而迷人的地方，
and fascinating places scattered around our coastline,

16
00:01:04,480 --> 00:01:08,200
并拜访那些以这些岛屿为家的人。
and meeting the people who call these islands home.

17
00:01:08,200 --> 00:01:11,040
- 她是艘可爱的船，对吧？ - 哦，太棒了。
- She's a lovely boat to sail? - Oh, fantastic.

18
00:01:11,040 --> 00:01:14,800
我得说就像E型捷豹或类似的车！
I would say like an E-type Jag or something like that!

19
00:01:14,800 --> 00:01:16,320
为了这次盛大之旅，我将航行
For this grand tour, I'm sailing

20
00:01:16,320 --> 00:01:18,960
前往奥克尼群岛的外围岛屿
to the outer islands of the Orkney archipelago

21
00:01:18,960 --> 00:01:21,400
去发现是什么将它们凝聚在一起。
to discover what holds them all together.

22
00:01:34,920 --> 00:01:37,640
我的路线将从北罗纳德赛岛开始
My route takes me from North Ronaldsay

23
00:01:37,640 --> 00:01:41,120
然后向南跳岛至小小的斯特罗马岛
and then island hops south to tiny Stroma

24
00:01:41,120 --> 00:01:44,640
它位于彭特兰湾汹涌的水域中，
in the tumultuous waters of the Pentland Firth,

25
00:01:44,640 --> 00:01:48,000
这是一条长长的海峡，将奥克尼
a long channel of the sea that separates Orkney

26
00:01:48,000 --> 00:01:49,440
与苏格兰大陆分隔开来。
from mainland Scotland.

27
00:01:51,240 --> 00:01:54,360
北罗纳德赛岛是奥克尼群岛中最北端的岛屿
North Ronaldsay is the most northerly of the Orkney islands

28
00:01:54,360 --> 00:01:58,560
因此你会认为它是最偏远与世隔绝的。
and you'd therefore think it would be the most remote and isolated.

29
00:01:58,560 --> 00:02:01,840
但这没有考虑到航空旅行的影响。
But that's without reckoning on the impact of air travel.

30
00:02:15,720 --> 00:02:18,840
这条空中航线由洛根航空提供。
The air link is provided by Logan Air.

31
00:02:18,840 --> 00:02:23,760
该公司成立于1962年，是英国仍在运营的最古老的航空公司。
Founded in 1962, it's the UK's oldest operating airline.

32
00:02:27,320 --> 00:02:30,080
为我驾驶航班的是科林·麦卡利斯特。
Piloting my flight is Colin McAllister.

33
00:02:30,080 --> 00:02:32,600
我很幸运能和他一起坐在前排
And I'm lucky enough to sit up front with him

34
00:02:32,600 --> 00:02:37,920
在这架恰如其名叫做“岛民”的小飞机里。
in this small plane appropriately called an Islander.

35
00:02:37,920 --> 00:02:40,520
你们飞往多少个岛屿？
How many islands do you fly to?

36
00:02:40,520 --> 00:02:44,920
我们飞往六个岛屿。北罗纳德赛岛是其中之一，
We fly to six islands. North Ronaldsay being one of them,

37
00:02:44,920 --> 00:02:51,600
其他的是韦斯特雷岛、帕帕韦斯特雷岛、斯特朗赛岛、桑迪岛和伊迪岛。
the others, Westray and Papa Westray, Stronsay, Sanday and Eday.

38
00:02:51,600 --> 00:02:54,160
所以，如果没有这条至关重要的空中航线，
So without this vital air link,

39
00:02:54,160 --> 00:02:58,640
很多人可能真的已经离开这些岛屿了。
a lot of people would really perhaps have moved on from these islands.

40
00:02:58,640 --> 00:03:04,160
当然是指像北罗纳德赛这样的岛。它们更偏远一些。
Certainly from the likes of North Ronaldsay. They're a bit further out.

41
00:03:04,160 --> 00:03:06,160
更在边缘地带。
More on the edge.

42
00:03:06,160 --> 00:03:10,320
我想人们可能会离开岛屿，这很可能是真的。
I think that's probably true that folk would've left the islands.

43
00:03:10,320 --> 00:03:14,320
北罗纳德赛岛在冬季每周有两班渡轮
North Ronaldsay in the winter gets two ferries a week

44
00:03:14,320 --> 00:03:17,360
- 而在夏季每周只有一班渡轮。 - 真的吗？就这些？
- and in the summer it's just one ferry a week. - Really? Is that all?

45
00:03:17,360 --> 00:03:21,560
- 是的。 - 所以他们真的完全依赖这条空中航线了。
- Yeah. - So they are totally dependent on this air link, really.

46
00:03:21,560 --> 00:03:22,960
我想毫无疑问。
I think without a doubt.

47
00:03:25,240 --> 00:03:27,160
自从民用航空开始以来，
Ever since civil flying began,

48
00:03:27,160 --> 00:03:29,760
奥克尼的人民表现出比英国任何其他地区的人民
the people of Orkney have shown themselves quicker to take up

49
00:03:29,760 --> 00:03:32,120
都更快地接受这种
the new means of travel than the people of any other part

50
00:03:32,120 --> 00:03:33,840
新的旅行方式。
of the United Kingdom.

51
00:03:33,840 --> 00:03:35,760
许多孩子在甚至还没见过火车之前
Many of the children have travelled by plane

52
00:03:35,760 --> 00:03:38,920
就已经坐过飞机旅行了。
long before they've even seen a railway train.

53
00:03:38,920 --> 00:03:41,560
航空旅行在奥克尼的潜力最早
The potential of air travel in Orkney was first

54
00:03:41,560 --> 00:03:47,400
早在1934年就得到了认可，当时先驱飞行员
recognised as long ago as 1934, when pioneering aviator

55
00:03:47,400 --> 00:03:51,800
泰德·弗雷森船长开始载人飞往这些岛屿。
Captain Ted Fresson began flying people to the islands.

56
00:03:51,800 --> 00:03:55,680
80年过去了，弗雷森留下的遗产是一项航空服务，使得
80 years on, Fresson's legacy is an air service that enables

57
00:03:55,680 --> 00:04:01,400
人们能够居住在北罗纳德赛岛并通勤到柯克沃尔工作。
people to live on North Ronaldsay and to commute to work in Kirkwall.

58
00:04:01,400 --> 00:04:04,520
我的意思是，我们这里的交通连接比
I mean, we're better connected here than

59
00:04:04,520 --> 00:04:07,760
比如说，住在苏格兰西海岸要好。
if you lived, say, up on the west coast of Scotland.

60
00:04:07,760 --> 00:04:08,840
你们确实是。
You certainly are.

61
00:04:08,840 --> 00:04:11,840
只要你有办法飞出去，你可以在，比如说，
As long as you've got the means to fly off, you can be in

62
00:04:11,840 --> 00:04:13,640
四个小时内到达伦敦。
London, say, in four hours.

63
00:04:14,800 --> 00:04:17,840
- 所以那很好。 - 从柯克沃尔？ - 从柯克沃尔，是的。
- So that's good. - From Kirkwall? - From Kirkwall, yeah.

64
00:04:22,520 --> 00:04:26,160
北罗纳德赛岛是一个小岛，长约三英里
North Ronaldsay is a small island, about three miles long

65
00:04:26,160 --> 00:04:29,800
宽一英里，只有70多人居住。
and a mile wide and is home to just over 70 people.

66
00:04:31,840 --> 00:04:35,000
为了了解北罗纳德赛岛的生活是怎样的，
To find out what life is like on North Ronaldsay,

67
00:04:35,000 --> 00:04:39,240
我正前往灯塔，我已安排在那里与一位
I'm making my way to the lighthouse, where I've arranged to meet someone

68
00:04:39,240 --> 00:04:41,080
从小就在这里生活的人见面。
who has lived here man and boy.

69
00:04:53,800 --> 00:04:57,440
- 你好，比利。 - 你好。 - 很高兴见到你。 - 很高兴见到你。
- Hi, Billy. - Hi. - Pleased to meet you. - Pleased to meet you.

70
00:04:57,440 --> 00:05:00,440
比利·缪尔是前灯塔看守人
Billy Muir is the former lighthouse keeper

71
00:05:00,440 --> 00:05:03,640
并同意带我一路登上塔顶。
and has agreed to take me all the way to the top.

72
00:05:06,320 --> 00:05:12,240
而恕我直言，我发现自己仿佛在攀登一座天梯。
And for my sins, I find myself on a kind of stairway to heaven.

73
00:05:12,240 --> 00:05:17,080
- 有多少级台阶，比利？ - 176级。 - 176级？
- How many steps are there, Billy? - 176. - 176?

74
00:05:17,080 --> 00:05:19,800
这座灯塔是由有宗教情怀的
The lighthouse was designed by the religiously minded

75
00:05:19,800 --> 00:05:23,760
艾伦·史蒂文森设计的，台阶的数量对应着
Alan Stevenson, and the number of steps corresponds to the

76
00:05:23,760 --> 00:05:26,840
所有诗篇中最长一篇的节数。
number of verses in the longest of all the psalms.

77
00:05:28,520 --> 00:05:30,880
显然，这对灵魂有好处。
It's good for the soul, apparently.

78
00:05:33,720 --> 00:05:36,520
而且回报不仅仅在天堂。
And the rewards are not just in heaven.

79
00:05:36,520 --> 00:05:40,280
从这里你可以看到北罗纳德赛岛的全景。
You can see the whole of North Ronaldsay from here.

80
00:05:40,280 --> 00:05:46,800
我出生在海湾对面那边的房子里。
I was born at the house over at the other side of the bay over there.

81
00:05:46,800 --> 00:05:49,960
我结婚后搬到了下面一栋房子
And I moved one house down when I got married

82
00:05:49,960 --> 00:05:52,000
并且一直住在那里。
and I've lived there ever since.

83
00:05:52,000 --> 00:05:55,360
- 所以你一生都在这里度过。 - 我一生都在这里，是的。
- So you have spent all your life here. - All my life here, yes.

84
00:05:55,360 --> 00:05:58,880
跟我讲讲这里的社会构成。
Tell me a wee bit about the social mix here.

85
00:05:58,880 --> 00:06:01,440
岛上现在有很多年轻人吗，
Are there many young people on the island now,

86
00:06:01,440 --> 00:06:03,000
还是人口正在老龄化？
or is it an ageing population?

87
00:06:03,000 --> 00:06:06,240
不得不说，是人口老龄化。
It's an ageing population, one has to say, yes.

88
00:06:06,240 --> 00:06:11,880
近年来有两个新家庭搬进来，这有助于
We have two new families that moved in in recent years and that's helped

89
00:06:11,880 --> 00:06:14,760
维持学校的入学人数。
keep the school numbers up.

90
00:06:14,760 --> 00:06:17,840
没有他们，学校里就不会有孩子了，
Without that, there would be no children in the school,

91
00:06:17,840 --> 00:06:19,400
我不得不说。
I have to say.

92
00:06:19,400 --> 00:06:24,480
那么像你这样的本地人和外来者之间的比例呢？
And what about the mix of local folk like yourself and incomers?

93
00:06:24,480 --> 00:06:26,720
外来者的比例是多少？
What's the percentage of incomers?

94
00:06:26,720 --> 00:06:30,280
- 我们称他们为新岛民。 - 好的。
- We call them new islanders. - Right.

95
00:06:30,280 --> 00:06:33,200
大概是各占一半，50对50。
It's about 50-50, probably.

96
00:06:33,200 --> 00:06:36,520
如果没有新岛民，这个岛屿今天就不会存在
Without the new islanders, the island wouldn't exist today

97
00:06:36,520 --> 00:06:41,520
我们需要更多人来维持学校的运转和所有服务的运行。
and we need more to keep the school going and all the services going.

98
00:06:41,520 --> 00:06:45,080
我们的人口几乎到了我们能接受的最低限度了。
We're about as low a population that we would want to be.

99
00:06:48,640 --> 00:06:50,440
比利的评论促使我
Billy's comments prompt me

100
00:06:50,440 --> 00:06:54,560
在我漫步海岸线时反思岛屿生活，
to reflect on island life as I wander the shore line,

101
00:06:54,560 --> 00:06:57,400
这里北罗纳德赛岛著名的吃海藻的羊
where North Ronaldsay's famous seaweed eating sheep

102
00:06:57,400 --> 00:06:58,800
正在愉快地吃草。
are happily grazing.

103
00:07:02,120 --> 00:07:05,640
比利对吸引北罗纳德赛岛所需的
Billy is optimistic about attracting the new islanders

104
00:07:05,640 --> 00:07:09,000
新岛民持乐观态度，因为凭借其空中航线，
North Ronaldsay needs, because with its air link,

105
00:07:09,000 --> 00:07:11,400
这个岛屿仍然连接良好。
the island is still well connected.

106
00:07:12,640 --> 00:07:16,760
但我的下一个目的地是一个社区，在那里与世隔绝
But my next destination is home to a community where isolation

107
00:07:16,760 --> 00:07:18,320
是一种珍视的理想。
is a cherished ideal.

108
00:07:21,720 --> 00:07:25,640
位于北罗纳德赛岛以南的是更小的
Lying south of North Ronaldsay is the even smaller island

109
00:07:25,640 --> 00:07:29,240
帕帕斯特朗赛岛，那里的渡轮航线由
of Papa Stronsay, where the ferry link is operated

110
00:07:29,240 --> 00:07:32,720
一群非传统的新岛民运营。
by an unconventional group of new islanders.

111
00:07:35,000 --> 00:07:39,400
去那里需要乘船穿越，这艘船似乎仅凭
To get there involves crossing in a boat that seems to be kept afloat

112
00:07:39,400 --> 00:07:42,040
祈祷的力量就能保持不沉。
by little more than the power of prayer.

113
00:07:43,360 --> 00:07:47,760
如今，该岛是一个国际僧侣社区的家园
Today, the island is home to an international community of monks

114
00:07:47,760 --> 00:07:49,680
由迈克尔·玛丽神父领导。
led by Father Michael Mary.

115
00:07:50,920 --> 00:07:53,600
那么，迈克尔·玛丽神父，今天天气相当恶劣，不是吗，
So, Father Michael Mary, it's a rather rough day, isn't it,

116
00:07:53,600 --> 00:07:55,000
要做这次横渡？
to be making this crossing?

117
00:07:55,000 --> 00:07:57,160
是有点颠簸。我们还能应付更糟一点的情况
It's a bit rough. We can go a bit rougher

118
00:07:57,160 --> 00:07:59,440
不过船的状况不是那么好
but the boat's not in such good condition

119
00:07:59,440 --> 00:08:01,200
但比这更糟的天气我们也能走。
but we can go rougher than this.

120
00:08:01,200 --> 00:08:04,920
- 是吗？ - 是的，我们能。 - 但我想不能再糟太多了。
- Yeah? - Yeah, we can. - But not much rougher, I would think.

121
00:08:04,920 --> 00:08:08,480
不能，这取决于谁开船。不过马尔科姆兄弟技术很好。
No, it depends who's driving. Brother Malcolm's good though.

122
00:08:14,040 --> 00:08:17,000
在几位圣徒
Under the watchful gaze of several saints

123
00:08:17,000 --> 00:08:21,200
和上帝本人的注视下，我感激地踏上了这座
and the good lord himself, I'm thankful to set foot on this

124
00:08:21,200 --> 00:08:25,800
小小的圣岛，僧侣们在这里致力于
tiny holy island where the monks dedicate themselves to the sacred

125
00:08:25,800 --> 00:08:31,680
将拉丁语保持在他们虔诚崇拜的核心这一神圣事业。
cause of keeping the Latin language at the heart of their devotions.

126
00:08:31,680 --> 00:08:32,760
迈克尔·玛丽神父，
Father Michael Mary,

127
00:08:32,760 --> 00:08:36,840
这个岛屿与僧侣的关联有多久了？
how long has this island been associated with monks?

128
00:08:36,840 --> 00:08:41,400
僧侣在这里的历史事实上可以追溯到圣科伦巴的时代。
Monks go back here to the time of St Columba in fact.

129
00:08:41,400 --> 00:08:44,680
所以至少1400年来，这个小岛一直
So for 1,400 years at least, this little island's been

130
00:08:44,680 --> 00:08:50,160
与僧侣、做弥撒和圣典联系在一起。
associated with monks and saying mass and holy scripture.

131
00:08:50,160 --> 00:08:51,640
确实如此。
Exactly.

132
00:08:51,640 --> 00:08:55,720
最初的修道院在16世纪被废弃
The original monastery was abandoned in the 16th century

133
00:08:55,720 --> 00:08:58,040
岛屿被用于农耕。
and the island given over to farming.

134
00:08:58,040 --> 00:09:02,360
当僧侣们在1999年买下它时，他们将谷仓
When the monks bought it 1999, they converted the barns

135
00:09:02,360 --> 00:09:05,920
和外屋改造成了食堂和小教堂
and outbuildings into a refectory and chapel

136
00:09:05,920 --> 00:09:09,240
宗教生活因此回归。
and so religious life returned.

137
00:09:09,240 --> 00:09:13,600
僧侣的使命和独处有些特别之处。
There's something special about the monastic vocation and the solitudes.

138
00:09:13,600 --> 00:09:19,200
我们需要在更广阔的循环中逃离世界的喧嚣
We need them in a wider cycle to escape from the noise of the world

139
00:09:19,200 --> 00:09:21,240
只为了一段祈祷和寂静的时光。
just to a time of prayer and silence.

140
00:09:21,240 --> 00:09:24,200
这是生活节奏的重要组成部分
It's an important part of the rhythm of life

141
00:09:24,200 --> 00:09:27,040
当人们没有它时，我想他们会错过一些东西。
and when people don't have it, I think they miss something.

142
00:09:27,040 --> 00:09:31,720
假期算是一种世俗的做同样事情的方式，不是吗？
Holidays are kind of a secular type of doing the same thing, aren't they?

143
00:09:31,720 --> 00:09:33,560
你甚至可以做得比那更好一点。
You can do it a wee bit better even than that.

144
00:09:33,560 --> 00:09:37,040
与其去拉斯维加斯，你可以来帕帕斯特朗赛。
Rather than Las Vegas, you can come to Papa Stronsay.

145
00:09:39,080 --> 00:09:42,960
僧侣们必须尽可能自给自足，
The monks have to be as self sufficient as possible,

146
00:09:42,960 --> 00:09:45,960
饲养奶牛并在一个机库大小的温室里
keeping cows and growing their own produce

147
00:09:45,960 --> 00:09:49,040
种植自己的农产品。
in a hangar-sized green house.

148
00:09:49,040 --> 00:09:52,560
- 那是无花果吗？ - 那是无花果树。 - 或者说无花果树。 - 是无花果树，是的。
- Is that a fig? - That's a fig tree. - Or a fig plant. - A fig plant, yeah.

149
00:09:52,560 --> 00:09:54,520
- 太神奇了。 - 可不是嘛，真的？
- That's fantastic. - Isn't it, really?

150
00:09:54,520 --> 00:09:57,240
它们一定是英国最北端种植的无花果了
They must be the most northerly figs grown in Britain

151
00:09:57,240 --> 00:09:58,520
我原以为。
I would have thought.

152
00:09:58,520 --> 00:10:01,440
我得说我才不在乎那个呢。(双关语，give a fig 表示在乎)
I would say I could give a fig about that.

153
00:10:03,120 --> 00:10:04,560
谁能想得到呢？
Who would've thought it?

154
00:10:04,560 --> 00:10:06,080
一个热带天堂。
A tropical paradise.

155
00:10:07,160 --> 00:10:08,920
一个伊甸园。
A garden of Eden.

156
00:10:11,000 --> 00:10:16,040
走到外面，投入奥克尼春天的寒冷怀抱中，
Stepping outside into the chilly embrace of an Orcadian Spring,

157
00:10:16,040 --> 00:10:18,800
迈克尔·玛丽神父急切地想向我展示
Father Michael Mary is keen to show me evidence

158
00:10:18,800 --> 00:10:20,880
该岛神圣血统的证据。
of the island's sacred lineage.

159
00:10:24,000 --> 00:10:25,600
沿着海岸是
Along the coast are the ruins

160
00:10:25,600 --> 00:10:29,720
公元6世纪凯尔特修道院的遗迹。
of the original 6th century Celtic monastery.

161
00:10:29,720 --> 00:10:32,240
所以这座建筑差不多是英国这部分地区
So this building is just about as old as it's possible to

162
00:10:32,240 --> 00:10:34,720
能见到的最古老的宗教建筑了。
get for a religious building in this part of Britain.

163
00:10:34,720 --> 00:10:39,600
是的，确实是。它非常古老，被称为已发现的
Yes, it is. It's very old and it was called the most northerly

164
00:10:39,600 --> 00:10:43,520
- 最北端的早期基督教修道院。 - 真的吗？ - 是的。
- early Christian monastery that's been found. - Really? - Yes.

165
00:10:43,520 --> 00:10:45,720
而僧侣们仍然在这里。
And the monks are still here.

166
00:10:45,720 --> 00:10:47,560
我们在这里。我们又回来了。
We're here. We're back again.

167
00:10:47,560 --> 00:10:49,160
这让你感觉如何？
How does that make you feel?

168
00:10:49,160 --> 00:10:51,840
很棒，因为现在僧侣们跨越了三个千年。
Great, because there's monks now through three millennium.

169
00:10:51,840 --> 00:10:54,240
公元1000年之前，公元1000年之后，
Before the year 1000, after the year 1000,

170
00:10:54,240 --> 00:10:59,000
我们在1999年到来，进入公元2000年，所以是三个千年。
and now we came in 1999 and into the year 2000 so that's three millennia.

171
00:11:02,160 --> 00:11:05,720
正如僧侣们通过岛屿的历史
Just as the monks feel a connection with Papa Stronsay

172
00:11:05,720 --> 00:11:07,480
感受到与帕帕斯特朗赛的联系一样，
through the history of the island,

173
00:11:07,480 --> 00:11:09,640
整个奥克尼也曾因一位过去的人物
so Orkney as a whole was once brought

174
00:11:09,640 --> 00:11:12,040
而更加紧密地联系在一起。
closer together by a figure from the past.

175
00:11:13,200 --> 00:11:16,040
为了讲述这个故事，我前往埃吉尔赛，
To tell this story, I'm heading to Egilsay,

176
00:11:16,040 --> 00:11:19,800
一个大约有24人口的岛屿。
an island with a population of 24, or thereabouts.

177
00:11:24,040 --> 00:11:27,840
尽管埃吉尔赛面积很小，但它在
Despite the tiny size of Egilsay, it's played a key role in

178
00:11:27,840 --> 00:11:32,160
塑造构成奥克尼群岛的多元岛屿的身份认同方面发挥了关键作用。
forging the identity of the diverse islands that make up the Orkneys.

179
00:11:33,560 --> 00:11:38,760
800年前，埃吉尔赛是一系列戏剧性事件的舞台
800 years ago, Egilsay was the stage for a series of dramatic events

180
00:11:38,760 --> 00:11:43,200
这些事件被维京人的《奥克尼萨迦》所描述，这是有史以来最著名的
described by the Viking Orkneyinga Saga, one of the most celebrated

181
00:11:43,200 --> 00:11:46,880
中世纪斯堪的纳维亚文学作品之一。
pieces of medieval Scandinavian literature ever written.

182
00:11:48,520 --> 00:11:51,920
我前方这座废墟教堂的历史可以追溯到12世纪
The ruined church ahead of me dates from the 12th century

183
00:11:51,920 --> 00:11:55,800
根据《奥克尼萨迦》记载，就是在这个地点
and according to the Orkneyinga Saga, it was on this site

184
00:11:55,800 --> 00:11:58,600
马格努斯伯爵遭遇了残酷的殉道之死。
that the Earl Magnus met a brutal martyr's death.

185
00:12:01,520 --> 00:12:04,280
当时奥克尼由两位表亲统治。
Orkney was then ruled by two cousins.

186
00:12:04,280 --> 00:12:07,760
哈康伯爵和马格努斯伯爵。
The Earl Haakon and the Earl Magnus.

187
00:12:07,760 --> 00:12:11,640
哈康冷酷无情、好战，马格努斯虔诚温顺。
Haakon was ruthless and warlike, Magnus pious and meek.

188
00:12:12,680 --> 00:12:16,880
起初，两位伯爵相处融洽，但邪恶之徒
At first, the earls ruled well together, but evil men stirred up

189
00:12:16,880 --> 00:12:21,320
在他们之间挑起事端，战争威胁要吞噬群岛。
trouble between them and war threatened to engulf the islands.

190
00:12:23,640 --> 00:12:25,760
为了避免流血冲突，
In order to avoid bloodshed,

191
00:12:25,760 --> 00:12:28,560
一场和平会议被定在复活节当天举行。
a peace conference was called for Easter Day.

192
00:12:28,560 --> 00:12:32,760
会议将在这里，埃吉尔赛的教堂举行。
It was to be held here at the church on Egilsay.

193
00:12:32,760 --> 00:12:35,360
马格努斯伯爵最先到达
Earl Magnus was the first to arrive

194
00:12:35,360 --> 00:12:38,880
作为一个圣洁的灵魂，他立刻开始祈祷。
and being a saintly soul, he immediately began to pray.

195
00:12:38,880 --> 00:12:41,200
但当他的表亲哈康带着一支小型舰队
But when his cousin Haakon turned up

196
00:12:41,200 --> 00:12:45,640
和100名全副武装的士兵出现时，
with a small fleet and 100 heavily armed men,

197
00:12:45,640 --> 00:12:48,360
马格努斯可就真的在劫难逃了。(字面：鹅被煮熟了)
Magnus's goose was well and truly cooked.

198
00:12:53,480 --> 00:12:57,440
可怜的马格努斯被杀了，但不久之后
Poor Magnus got the chop, but it wasn't long before

199
00:12:57,440 --> 00:13:01,600
各种奇迹开始与他的名字联系在一起。
all kinds of miracles began to be associated with his name.

200
00:13:01,600 --> 00:13:05,760
 within a generation, Earl Magnus had become Saint Magnus.
 within a generation, Earl Magnus had become Saint Magnus.

201
00:13:10,520 --> 00:13:13,480
奥克尼人开始将马格努斯视为殉道者。
Orcadians came to regard Magnus as a martyr.

202
00:13:14,600 --> 00:13:17,680
他生前，群岛是分裂的。
While he lived, the islands were divided.

203
00:13:17,680 --> 00:13:22,120
他的牺牲为了所有人的利益将群岛凝聚在一起。
His sacrifice held the islands together for the good of all.

204
00:13:28,360 --> 00:13:31,640
这是柯克沃尔。教堂之湾。
This is Kirkwall. The bay of the kirk.

205
00:13:31,640 --> 00:13:35,080
奥克尼的首府，也是群岛的中心。
The capital of Orkney and the centre of the archipelago.

206
00:13:36,080 --> 00:13:39,480
这座大教堂是献给圣马格努斯的，
The cathedral is dedicated to St Magnus,

207
00:13:39,480 --> 00:13:43,360
他的遗骨就安放在它古老的柱子下面。
whose bones were laid to rest beneath of its ancient pillars.

208
00:13:45,240 --> 00:13:48,960
圣马格努斯是英国唯一的维京圣人。
St Magnus is Britain's only Viking saint.

209
00:13:48,960 --> 00:13:52,600
生前，马格努斯伯爵属于那个
In life, Earl Magnus belonged to the Viking world

210
00:13:52,600 --> 00:13:57,360
暴力强权政治、强权即公理的维京世界。
of violent power politics, where might was right.

211
00:13:57,360 --> 00:14:02,840
来自挪威西部的维京人在8世纪定居于此，
Vikings from western Norway settled here in Orkney in the 8th century,

212
00:14:02,840 --> 00:14:06,200
在超过600年的时间里，这些由
and for over 600 years, these islands,

213
00:14:06,200 --> 00:14:09,560
奥克尼维京伯爵统治的岛屿，
ruled by the Viking earls of Orkney,

214
00:14:09,560 --> 00:14:11,680
是斯堪的纳维亚世界的一部分。
were part of the Scandinavian world.

215
00:14:15,800 --> 00:14:19,760
维京人对奥克尼影响的证据无处不在，
Evidence of Viking influence on Orkney is everywhere,

216
00:14:19,760 --> 00:14:24,360
尤其是在曾经这里很常见的船只上。
especially in the boats that were once so common here.

217
00:14:24,360 --> 00:14:27,200
这些至关重要的小船曾经帮助
These vital little craft once helped

218
00:14:27,200 --> 00:14:30,640
维持岛屿及其人民之间的联系。
to keep the islands and their people connected.

219
00:14:30,640 --> 00:14:34,600
威利·塔洛克掌舵着这艘传统的约尔船，
Willie Tulloch takes the helm of this traditional yole,

220
00:14:34,600 --> 00:14:37,560
正如许多奥克尼人之前所做的那样。
as many Orcadians have done before him.

221
00:14:37,560 --> 00:14:40,280
它们是非常棒的小船。
They're fantastic little boats.

222
00:14:40,280 --> 00:14:44,480
非常好的海船。非常易于驾驶。
Very good sea boat. Very kindly to sail.

223
00:14:44,480 --> 00:14:49,480
这真是海上的出租车。
This was really the taxi of the sea.

224
00:14:49,480 --> 00:14:53,840
在旧时代，它们就像汽车一样被使用。
They were used in the olden days as a car was used.

225
00:14:53,840 --> 00:14:57,120
在他们有道路之前，任何需要运输的东西，
Before they had roads and anything that needed to be carried,

226
00:14:57,120 --> 00:14:59,000
都由约尔船来运送。
the yoles carried them.

227
00:14:59,000 --> 00:15:04,600
- 牲畜呢？ - 我听说过用约尔船运羊。
- Livestock? - I've heard of sheep being carried in yoles.

228
00:15:06,680 --> 00:15:09,360
嗯，我得说这感觉是一艘非常适航的船。
Well, it feels a very seaworthy boat, I have to say.

229
00:15:09,360 --> 00:15:11,240
确实非常好。
Very good indeed.

230
00:15:11,240 --> 00:15:14,720
根据我在挪威的经验，它与
And from my Norwegian experience, it's not that dissimilar to

231
00:15:14,720 --> 00:15:18,080
我熟悉的挪威海岸的一些船并没有太大不同。
some of the boats that I'm familiar with off the Norwegian coast.

232
00:15:18,080 --> 00:15:21,080
你认为维京人的造船传统
Do you think the boat building traditions of the Vikings

233
00:15:21,080 --> 00:15:22,520
是随他们而来的吗？
came with them?

234
00:15:22,520 --> 00:15:23,680
是的，我会这么说。
Yes, I would say so.

235
00:15:25,400 --> 00:15:27,960
这种船的美妙之处在于，
The beauty is with this type of boat,

236
00:15:27,960 --> 00:15:31,600
它是经过一代代人建造完善的。
that it's been built over generations.

237
00:15:31,600 --> 00:15:36,600
每一代都在这里或那里进行一点点调整。
Each generation has tweaked a wee bit here and there.

238
00:15:36,600 --> 00:15:40,920
所以我们现在拥有的是绝对出色的船只。
So what we have now are absolutely fantastic boats.

239
00:15:45,840 --> 00:15:49,120
传统的木船建造工艺
The traditional craft of wooden boat building is

240
00:15:49,120 --> 00:15:52,400
由伊恩·理查森在奥克尼保持着。
maintained in Orkney by Ian Richardson.

241
00:15:52,400 --> 00:15:57,240
这是一艘传统的奥克尼约尔船。一艘南部群岛的约尔船。
It's a traditional Orkney yole. A south isles yole.

242
00:15:57,240 --> 00:16:01,080
18英尺长，横梁约七英尺六。
18ft, seven foot six a beam approximately.

243
00:16:01,080 --> 00:16:03,480
铜钉固定。
Copper fastened.

244
00:16:03,480 --> 00:16:05,560
并且非常具有该地区的传统特色。
And very traditional to the area.

245
00:16:05,560 --> 00:16:08,920
- 是你造的？ - 是我造的，是的。 - 花了多长时间？
- And you built it? - I built it, yes. - How long did it take?

246
00:16:08,920 --> 00:16:11,720
按理说应该花四个半到五个月。
Four and a half to five months is what it should take.

247
00:16:11,720 --> 00:16:13,920
- 你自己一个人？ - 我自己一个人。
- By yourself? - By yourself.

248
00:16:13,920 --> 00:16:17,600
我找人帮我一起蒸汽弯曲肋骨。
I get someone to steam bend timbers with me.

249
00:16:19,240 --> 00:16:23,520
你的手臂不够长，抱不住船。这就是原因。
Your arms aren't long enough to go round the boat. That's the reason.

250
00:16:23,520 --> 00:16:27,280
但是，是的，那是唯一一次有人帮我。
But, yeah, that's the only time someone gives me a hand.

251
00:16:27,280 --> 00:16:29,280
你自己驾驶过这艘船吗？
And have you sailed this boat yourself?

252
00:16:29,280 --> 00:16:34,440
我驾驶过这一艘，并且很高兴地说它很有竞争力。
I've sailed this one and I'm happy to say it's very competitive.

253
00:16:36,600 --> 00:16:39,640
伊恩的手工制品可以在苏格兰各地找到，
Ian's handiwork can be found all over Scotland,

254
00:16:39,640 --> 00:16:42,520
从西海岸的作业渔船，
from working fishing boats on the west coast,

255
00:16:42,520 --> 00:16:44,640
到奥克尼周围的许多约尔船。
to the many yoles around Orkney.

256
00:16:45,800 --> 00:16:49,280
事实上，威利正在驾驶的那艘船就是伊恩建造的，
In fact, Ian built the boat that Willie is sailing,

257
00:16:49,280 --> 00:16:53,880
运用了曾在这里蓬勃发展的工艺技能。
using craft skills that once flourished here.

258
00:16:53,880 --> 00:16:56,520
我是在斯特罗姆内斯这里学的这门手艺。
I learnt the trade here in Stromness.

259
00:16:58,080 --> 00:17:00,800
在斯特罗姆内斯曾有两个船厂。
In Stromness there were two boatyards.

260
00:17:00,800 --> 00:17:03,840
- 整个奥克尼曾有五个船厂。 - 哇。
- In the whole of Orkney there were five boatyards. - Wow.

261
00:17:03,840 --> 00:17:06,080
还剩下很多吗？
Are there many left?

262
00:17:06,080 --> 00:17:07,120
就剩我了。
There's just me.

263
00:17:07,120 --> 00:17:09,040
- 就剩你了。 - 是的。
- There's just you left. - Yes.

264
00:17:09,040 --> 00:17:10,400
是的。
Yeah.

265
00:17:10,400 --> 00:17:12,800
奥克尼漫长造船传统的最后一人。
The last of a long tradition of boat building in Orkney.

266
00:17:12,800 --> 00:17:15,000
最后的，是的。
The last of, yeah.

267
00:17:15,000 --> 00:17:18,120
- 确实。 - 想到你是最后一个，你感觉如何？
- Indeed. - How does that make you feel, to think you're the last?

268
00:17:18,120 --> 00:17:20,280
嗯，我觉得这挺可悲的，真的。
Well, I think it's quite sad, really.

269
00:17:20,280 --> 00:17:24,480
因为当我看着那艘船时，我想它不仅仅是木头。
Because when I look at that boat, I'm thinking it's not just wood.

270
00:17:24,480 --> 00:17:27,720
有一整个一生的造船经验
There's a whole lifetime of boat building experience

271
00:17:27,720 --> 00:17:29,040
投入到了它的制作中。
has gone into making it.

272
00:17:29,040 --> 00:17:33,480
这不是你在一两年内就能学会的东西。
It's not something you pick up in just a year or so.

273
00:17:33,480 --> 00:17:35,560
这基本上是一生的工作。
It is a lifetime's work, basically.

274
00:17:40,800 --> 00:17:43,640
尽管伊恩对奥克尼造船业的未来感到悲观
Although Ian is downbeat about the future of boat building

275
00:17:43,640 --> 00:17:47,280
但他的遗产得以延续。
in Orkney, his legacy endures.

276
00:17:47,280 --> 00:17:51,640
能乘坐他造的船是一种荣幸。
It's a privilege to sail in one of his boats.

277
00:17:51,640 --> 00:17:54,840
- 这是一艘可爱的船，航行起来很棒。 - 哦，太棒了。
- Which is a lovely boat to sail. - Oh, fantastic.

278
00:17:54,840 --> 00:17:58,040
我得说就像E型捷豹之类的。
I would say like an E-type Jag or something.

279
00:18:01,000 --> 00:18:04,160
我们今天航行所在的这片广阔水域
The large body of water we are sailing in today

280
00:18:04,160 --> 00:18:06,200
是斯卡帕湾的一部分。
is part of Scapa Flow.

281
00:18:06,200 --> 00:18:08,960
在20世纪的两次世界大战期间，
During the two world wars of the 20th century,

282
00:18:08,960 --> 00:18:12,920
这个巨大的天然港口，通过周围岛屿的保护
this huge natural harbour, protected from the open sea

283
00:18:12,920 --> 00:18:17,240
免受外海侵袭，曾是英国舰队的母港。
by the islands all around it, was home to the British Fleet.

284
00:18:17,240 --> 00:18:24,320
1939年，一艘德国U型潜艇突破防御，击沉了皇家海军皇家橡树号
In 1939, a German U-boat penetrated the defences and sank HMS Royal Oak

285
00:18:24,320 --> 00:18:27,480
造成800多人丧生。
with the loss of over 800 lives.

286
00:18:27,480 --> 00:18:30,840
随后，首相温斯顿·丘吉尔下令
Prime Minister Winston Churchill then issued an order

287
00:18:30,840 --> 00:18:33,080
封锁岛屿之间的缺口，
to seal the gaps between the islands,

288
00:18:33,080 --> 00:18:34,960
先是使用沉没的阻塞船
first with sunken block ships

289
00:18:34,960 --> 00:18:36,600
然后采用更永久的方式。
and then more permanently.

290
00:18:38,560 --> 00:18:41,720
第二次世界大战给奥克尼带来了丘吉尔屏障
The Second World War gave Orkney the Churchill Barriers

291
00:18:41,720 --> 00:18:43,760
这些屏障是为了保护英国舰队
which were built to protect the vital anchorage

292
00:18:43,760 --> 00:18:45,000
至关重要的锚地而建造的。
of the British fleet.

293
00:18:49,440 --> 00:18:52,040
但是，虽然海军战略催生了它们
But while naval strategy brought them into being

294
00:18:52,040 --> 00:18:54,840
但它们所承载的道路被证明是
the roads they carry have proved to be a godsend to those

295
00:18:54,840 --> 00:18:57,360
对那些居住在由此连接起来的岛屿上的人们的天赐之物。
living on the islands thus linked together.

296
00:18:57,360 --> 00:19:00,520
这位农民现在只需两分钟就能完成一次横渡，而过去
It takes this farmer only two minutes to make a crossing that once

297
00:19:00,520 --> 00:19:04,000
他需要花两个小时费力地划约尔船。
took him two hours back-breaking manhandling in a yole boat.

298
00:19:07,720 --> 00:19:10,640
向南行驶，穿过连接小岛伯雷和拉姆霍姆的堤道
Heading south over the causeway that connects the little islands

299
00:19:10,640 --> 00:19:14,840
我前往南罗纳德赛岛
of Burray and Lamb Holm, I head to South Ronaldsay

300
00:19:14,840 --> 00:19:18,480
和风景如画的圣玛格丽特希望村，
and the picturesque village of St Margaret's Hope,

301
00:19:18,480 --> 00:19:21,240
这里曾是一个繁荣的渔业和贸易中心。
once a flourishing fishing and trading centre.

302
00:19:25,040 --> 00:19:28,800
如今，岛屿常被认为是偏远之地
Islands today are often considered to be remote places

303
00:19:28,800 --> 00:19:32,760
但从历史上看，奥克尼是由海洋连接在一起的，
but historically, Orkney was held together by the sea,

304
00:19:32,760 --> 00:19:35,520
而非被其隔绝。
not isolated by it.

305
00:19:35,520 --> 00:19:38,960
自古以来就有人在这里繁衍生息，
People have flourished here since the very earliest times,

306
00:19:38,960 --> 00:19:41,240
这些岛屿拥有一些整个北欧
and the islands boast some of the most significant

307
00:19:41,240 --> 00:19:44,400
最重要的考古遗址。
archaeological sites in the whole of northern Europe.

308
00:19:46,400 --> 00:19:50,000
就在圣玛格丽特希望村外几英里，位于南罗纳德赛岛南端
Just a few miles outside of St Margaret's Hope at the south end

309
00:19:50,000 --> 00:19:52,640
是苏格兰全境最非凡
of South Ronaldsay is one of the most remarkable

310
00:19:52,640 --> 00:19:58,080
且名字最富浪漫色彩的考古遗址之一。
and romantic-sounding archaeological sites in the whole of Scotland.

311
00:20:02,960 --> 00:20:06,480
凯瑟琳和弗雷达·西米森一生都居住在这里务农
Kathleen and Freda Simison have lived and farmed here

312
00:20:06,480 --> 00:20:07,520
。
all their lives.

313
00:20:08,520 --> 00:20:12,680
她们也是非凡的鹰墓的守护者，
They are also custodians of the remarkable Tomb of the Eagles,

314
00:20:12,680 --> 00:20:18,800
该墓穴最初由她们的父亲罗尼·西米森于1958年发现。
which was first discovered by their father Ronnie Simison in 1958.

315
00:20:18,800 --> 00:20:22,600
爸爸买了一块新的小农场，他打算给它围上篱笆
Dad had bought a new croft and he was going to fence it

316
00:20:22,600 --> 00:20:26,400
所以他正在寻找石头做角柱。
so he was looking for stones to make corner posts.

317
00:20:26,400 --> 00:20:28,640
那里有一个土丘
There's a mound there

318
00:20:28,640 --> 00:20:31,840
雨水冲走了土丘一侧的泥土
and the weather had washed the soil off the side of the mound

319
00:20:31,840 --> 00:20:35,040
他看到了后来被证实是外墙的一部分，
and he saw part of what turned out to be the outside wall,

320
00:20:35,040 --> 00:20:38,800
那些平放的石头他觉得可能有用
that was horizontal stones that he thought might be useful

321
00:20:38,800 --> 00:20:41,640
他就刮开看看里面有什么。
and he scraped away to see what was there.

322
00:20:45,480 --> 00:20:47,520
多么奇妙的结构啊。
What a wonderful structure.

323
00:20:47,520 --> 00:20:51,840
凯瑟琳，这对奥克尼考古学有什么重要意义？
Kathleen, what's the significance of this to Orkney archaeology?

324
00:20:51,840 --> 00:20:55,040
嗯，中石器时代的人就在冰河时代结束后不久来到这里
Well, the Mesolithic people were here just after the end

325
00:20:55,040 --> 00:21:00,920
然后大约6000年前，他们开始在这里务农。
of the ice age and then about 6,000 years ago they began farming here.

326
00:21:00,920 --> 00:21:05,400
他们在大约5000年前开始使用这个墓穴。
They started using the tomb here just after 5,000 years ago.

327
00:21:05,400 --> 00:21:08,640
所以，如果你从时间线的角度来想，
So if you think of it in terms of a timeline,

328
00:21:08,640 --> 00:21:10,480
当吉萨大金字塔正在建造时
people were being buried here

329
00:21:10,480 --> 00:21:12,560
人们正被安葬在这里。
when the great pyramid of Giza was being built.

330
00:21:12,560 --> 00:21:14,560
- 没错。 - 这想法真令人惊叹。
- That's right. - It's an amazing thought.

331
00:21:14,560 --> 00:21:17,880
- 它比金字塔还古老。 - 太神奇了。
- It's older than the pyramids. - That's fantastic.

332
00:21:17,880 --> 00:21:21,280
我尽力模仿印第安纳·琼斯的样子，
Doing my best Indiana Jones impersonation,

333
00:21:21,280 --> 00:21:24,640
我进入了墓室的内殿。
I enter the inner sanctum of the burial chamber.

334
00:21:26,120 --> 00:21:28,000
这就是罗尼·西米森发现
This is where Ronnie Simison discovered

335
00:21:28,000 --> 00:21:32,120
安息于此的古代人遗骨的地方
the bones of the ancient people who were laid to rest here

336
00:21:32,120 --> 00:21:36,120
与他们一同发现的还有大量石器时代的手工艺品。
and with them, a wealth of Stone Age artefacts.

337
00:21:36,120 --> 00:21:39,480
它被称为鹰墓。这是为什么？
It's called the Tomb of the Eagles. Why is that?

338
00:21:39,480 --> 00:21:42,200
这是因为发现了鹰的骨头。
It's because of the eagle bones that were found.

339
00:21:42,200 --> 00:21:44,360
在这里发现了鹰骨和鹰爪。
Eagle bones and eagle talons were found in here.

340
00:21:44,360 --> 00:21:46,800
不同的群体可能会选择不同的动物
Different groups would choose different animals

341
00:21:46,800 --> 00:21:48,200
作为他们的命名来源。
maybe as their namesake.

342
00:21:48,200 --> 00:21:50,480
在奥克尼，不同的墓穴被挖掘出来
In Orkney, there's different tombs been excavated

343
00:21:50,480 --> 00:21:52,200
一个里面有鹿角，
and one's got deer antlers in it,

344
00:21:52,200 --> 00:21:57,600
另一个里面有狗的头骨，而这里发现的是鹰骨。
another's got dog skulls and it's eagle bones that they've found here.

345
00:21:57,600 --> 00:22:00,560
所以这些居住在这里的人可能认同鹰
So these people who lived here might have identified with eagles

346
00:22:00,560 --> 00:22:02,760
并称自己为鹰族之类的。
and called themselves the eagle folk or something.

347
00:22:02,760 --> 00:22:05,280
是的，有人是这么推测的。
Yes, that's what's suggested.

348
00:22:06,480 --> 00:22:11,360
墓穴及其遗骨展示了史前社会是如何
The tomb and its bones demonstrate how prehistoric society developed

349
00:22:11,360 --> 00:22:15,720
在这些岛屿上发展的，即使在那时，它们也通过贸易和文化相连。
on the islands, which even then were connected by trade and culture.

350
00:22:17,000 --> 00:22:21,280
但是，当海洋不是连接岛屿，而是
But what happens when the sea, instead of uniting islands,

351
00:22:21,280 --> 00:22:24,320
将一个社区分隔开来，使其孤立无援时，会发生什么？
separates a community, leaving it isolated?

352
00:22:27,800 --> 00:22:31,560
答案就在彭特兰湾汹涌的水域对岸，
The answer lies across the wild waters of the Pentland Firth,

353
00:22:31,560 --> 00:22:35,080
在那里有时可以看到成群的虎鲸
where schools of killer whales can sometimes be seen

354
00:22:35,080 --> 00:22:38,400
在潮汐流和漩涡中捕食海豹。
hunting for seals in the tidal races and whirlpools.

355
00:22:40,680 --> 00:22:43,640
我正前往如今已荒废的斯特罗马岛
I'm heading to the now deserted island of Stroma

356
00:22:43,640 --> 00:22:46,120
在古老的维京语言中
which in the old language of the Vikings

357
00:22:46,120 --> 00:22:48,120
意为“急流中的岛屿”。
means the island in the stream.

358
00:22:49,200 --> 00:22:54,240
与我同行的是约翰·曼森，他是最后离开的人之一。
Joining me is John Manson, who was one of the last to leave.

359
00:22:54,240 --> 00:22:57,680
从这里能看到你的房子吗，约翰？
Can you see your house from here, John?

360
00:22:57,680 --> 00:23:00,920
- 能，就是那个……看到那一大片房子了吗？ - 嗯。
- Yes, it's the... See the big clump of houses? - Uh-huh.

361
00:23:00,920 --> 00:23:06,000
然后有两栋位置低一点的，我们的就是最里面那栋。
Then there's two lying lower, ours is the furthest in one there.

362
00:23:06,000 --> 00:23:08,160
你离开的时候多大？
And how old were you when you left?

363
00:23:08,160 --> 00:23:11,400
- 我们离开的时候？大约18岁。 - 你大约18岁？ - 18岁。
- When we left? About 18 years old. - You were about 18? - 18.

364
00:23:13,880 --> 00:23:17,240
人们在斯特罗马岛生活了数千年。
People lived on Stroma for thousands of years.

365
00:23:17,240 --> 00:23:20,480
这是一种依赖于在这些危险水域航行的生活方式
It was a way of life that depended on navigating these

366
00:23:20,480 --> 00:23:25,680
相关的知识成为了他们民间传说的一部分。
dangerous waters, knowledge that became part of their folklore.

367
00:23:25,680 --> 00:23:28,760
他们对水域非常了解。
They were very knowledgeable of the waters.

368
00:23:28,760 --> 00:23:30,000
他们必须如此，你明白吗？
They had to be, you know?

369
00:23:30,000 --> 00:23:33,320
如果他们不对潮汐流
They couldn't live in this area without being very

370
00:23:33,320 --> 00:23:35,600
有非常深入的了解，就无法在这个地区生活。
knowledgeable of the tide races.

371
00:23:36,720 --> 00:23:40,800
- 主要的潮汐流在北端的斯威尔基点。 - 斯威尔基点？
- The main one is at the north end at Swilkie Point. - Swilkie Point?

372
00:23:40,800 --> 00:23:43,880
- 它被称为斯威尔基。 - 它是一个特别凶险的潮汐流吗？
- It's called the Swilkie. - Is it a particularly vicious one?

373
00:23:43,880 --> 00:23:45,440
是的，它是。它是一个凶险的潮汐流。
Yes, it is. It's a vicious one.

374
00:23:50,360 --> 00:23:54,200
我们在斯特罗马岛的港口登陆，约翰回忆说
We land at the harbour on Stroma, a place that John recalls

375
00:23:54,200 --> 00:23:58,240
他小时候这里像火车站一样繁忙。
being as busy as a railway station when he was a boy.

376
00:23:58,240 --> 00:24:03,280
那时，有80人居住在这里，但就在一个多世纪前
Back then, 80 people lived here, but just over a century ago

377
00:24:03,280 --> 00:24:06,200
曾有600名居民。
there were 600 inhabitants.

378
00:24:07,280 --> 00:24:11,480
如今，斯特罗马岛是一个充满幽灵的岛屿。
Now, Stroma is an island of ghosts.

379
00:24:11,480 --> 00:24:14,600
约翰一家是最后离开的。
John's family was the last to leave.

380
00:24:14,600 --> 00:24:17,480
我们目睹了岛屿的衰败。
We watched the run-down of the island.

381
00:24:17,480 --> 00:24:22,400
就好像随着人们前往大陆
It was like the whole island was dying as the people

382
00:24:22,400 --> 00:24:24,520
整个岛屿正在消亡。
went to the mainland.

383
00:24:24,520 --> 00:24:27,120
看着他们离开很悲伤，但是
It was sad to see them going but

384
00:24:27,120 --> 00:24:32,320
在你年轻上学的时候也有过快乐的时光。
there was happy days in your young days when you went to your school.

385
00:24:32,320 --> 00:24:38,520
我记得学校里大概有12或14个人。
I remember about 12 or 14 people maybe in the school here.

386
00:24:38,520 --> 00:24:41,160
所以，我想岛上每个人一定都
So, I imagine that everyone on the island would've known

387
00:24:41,160 --> 00:24:43,640
非常了解其他每个人。
everyone else very well.

388
00:24:43,640 --> 00:24:47,600
是的，年轻人也照顾老年人。
Yes, the younger people looked after the older ones too.

389
00:24:47,600 --> 00:24:51,720
这是一个很好的社区。他们是非常善于交际的人。
It was a nice community. They were very sociable people.

390
00:24:51,720 --> 00:24:54,240
我在想，我们两边的这些田地，
I was just thinking, these fields here on either side of us,

391
00:24:54,240 --> 00:24:56,320
它们曾经被耕种过吗？
would they have been cultivated at one time?

392
00:24:56,320 --> 00:24:58,600
是的，它们会的，它们都会被耕种。
Yes, they would be, they'd be all cultivated.

393
00:24:58,600 --> 00:25:02,480
很好，岛的这一边和东边都是良田。
Good, arable ground on this side and the east side of the island.

394
00:25:02,480 --> 00:25:04,680
你们当时一定几乎是自给自足的。
You must've been almost self-sufficient.

395
00:25:04,680 --> 00:25:07,200
是的，他们是的。哦，是的。
Yes, they would be. Oh, yes.

396
00:25:07,200 --> 00:25:10,640
他们会养鸡下蛋，会养一头猪
They'd have hens for the eggs, they'd have a pig that they kept

397
00:25:10,640 --> 00:25:13,280
养肥然后杀掉。
and fattened and killed it off.

398
00:25:13,280 --> 00:25:15,960
每家都会有一头奶牛提供牛奶。
Every house would have a cow for milk.

399
00:25:15,960 --> 00:25:18,920
他们把冬天吃的鱼用盐腌起来。
They salted the fish that they ate through the winter months.

400
00:25:18,920 --> 00:25:21,280
他们是自给自足的。
They were self-sufficient.

401
00:25:21,280 --> 00:25:24,480
我想他们几乎根本不需要商店。
They hardly needed a shop at all, I think.

402
00:25:26,240 --> 00:25:31,760
在约翰和他家人1962年离开岛上的前几年，
A couple of years before John and his family left the island in 1962,

403
00:25:31,760 --> 00:25:35,760
他们在家门外拍了照。
they were photographed outside the family home.

404
00:25:35,760 --> 00:25:37,960
现在看着很难过。
Sad to look at it now.

405
00:25:37,960 --> 00:25:39,840
非常破败了。
Very dilapidated.

406
00:25:39,840 --> 00:25:43,560
我们搬走后，鸟儿就搬进来了。
The birds have moved in when we vacated.

407
00:25:43,560 --> 00:25:46,800
- 它们搬进来了。大自然正在接管。 - 是的。
- They've moved in. Nature's taking over. - Yes.

408
00:25:50,640 --> 00:25:52,440
那么这就是以前的客厅了，是吗？
So this is the old living room then, is it?

409
00:25:52,440 --> 00:25:54,520
是的，是的。
Yes, it is.

410
00:25:54,520 --> 00:25:57,200
嗯，这是一个卧室兼客厅
Well, it's a bed sitting room

411
00:25:57,200 --> 00:25:58,640
谁睡在那里？
Who slept in there?

412
00:25:58,640 --> 00:26:01,440
那是我母亲和父亲的卧室
That's my mother and father's bedroom

413
00:26:01,440 --> 00:26:04,760
同时也是家里的起居室。
and it was the family sitting room at the same time.

414
00:26:04,760 --> 00:26:07,760
- 所以你们晚上会聚在这里，是吗？ - 哦，是的。
- So you'd gather in here of an evening, would you? - Oh, yes.

415
00:26:07,760 --> 00:26:13,200
我们会在这里吃饭，坐着聊天，听收音机。
We would eat in here and sit and yarn, listen to the radio.

416
00:26:14,280 --> 00:26:17,040
卢森堡电台的Top 20热门歌曲。
Radio Luxemburg top 20 hits.

417
00:26:17,040 --> 00:26:19,160
我们都喜欢那些东西。
We were into all that sort of stuff.

418
00:26:19,160 --> 00:26:21,480
埃尔维斯·普雷斯利（猫王）正流行。
Elvis Presley was on the go.

419
00:26:21,480 --> 00:26:22,960
克里夫·理查德。
Cliff Richard.

420
00:26:22,960 --> 00:26:27,680
唉，我们住在这里的时候，
Aye, they were just finding their feet in the hit parade

421
00:26:27,680 --> 00:26:29,240
他们才刚刚在流行音乐排行榜上站稳脚跟。
when we were living here.

422
00:26:29,240 --> 00:26:30,680
那张桌子是你的桌子吗？
Is that table your table?

423
00:26:30,680 --> 00:26:31,880
是的，是的。
Yes, it is.

424
00:26:31,880 --> 00:26:34,920
你们会围着那张桌子吃晚饭吗？
Would you have sat around that table having your dinner?

425
00:26:34,920 --> 00:26:37,960
我们在这里养了一只山羊，更像宠物。
We had a goat here, like a pet more than anything else.

426
00:26:37,960 --> 00:26:42,520
我母亲，她总是在周日晚上准备一顿丰盛的茶点。薄煎饼，司康饼。
My mother, she always made a high tea on a Sunday night. Pancakes, scones.

427
00:26:43,800 --> 00:26:47,280
桌上什么都有，姜饼，样样俱全。
Everything on the table, gingerbread, everything.

428
00:26:47,280 --> 00:26:49,360
还有狗，我们有两条柯利牧羊犬，
And the dogs, we had two collie dogs,

429
00:26:49,360 --> 00:26:52,840
它们把山羊追进了房子，我母亲已经把
they chased the goat in through the house and my mother had this

430
00:26:52,840 --> 00:26:54,800
桌子都摆好了，然后那只山羊，
table all set, and the goat,

431
00:26:54,800 --> 00:26:57,520
它想从桌子后面的那个窗户出去。
he tried to get out through that window at the back of the table.

432
00:26:57,520 --> 00:27:01,400
它把两条前腿搭在桌子上，把东西都吃光了。
And he put his two legs up on top of the table and cleaned it.

433
00:27:01,400 --> 00:27:04,000
我母亲对此很不高兴。
My mother was not happy about that.

434
00:27:04,000 --> 00:27:06,000
我们觉得好笑极了！
We thought it was hilarious!

435
00:27:06,000 --> 00:27:08,120
我们当时觉得特别好玩。
Hilarious bit of fun we were having.

436
00:27:08,120 --> 00:27:09,960
我母亲不高兴，是的。
My mother was not happy, no.

437
00:27:09,960 --> 00:27:11,120
她当时不高兴。
She wasn't happy at that.

438
00:27:11,120 --> 00:27:15,080
- 那么这个房间里有很多家庭回忆。 - 是的，有很多，唉。
- A lot of family memories then, in this room. - Yes, there is, aye.

439
00:27:15,080 --> 00:27:18,200
我有五个孙子和一个孙女。
I've got five grandsons and a granddaughter.

440
00:27:18,200 --> 00:27:23,080
他们都对这个岛和这里曾经的生活方式非常感兴趣。
All very interested in the island and the way of life that was here.

441
00:27:23,080 --> 00:27:28,040
他们对此非常感兴趣，这让故事得以延续，你明白吗？
They're very interested in that and it keeps the stories going, you know?

442
00:27:28,040 --> 00:27:31,040
它让历史继续流传下去。
It keeps the history rolling along.

443
00:27:31,040 --> 00:27:32,840
反正我觉得是这样。
I think it does anyway.

444
00:27:32,840 --> 00:27:36,520
如果你不告诉别人，就没人会知道。
If you don't tell somebody about it, nobody's ever going to know about it.

445
00:27:36,520 --> 00:27:38,840
它就会彻底消失。
It'll just fade out altogether.

446
00:27:42,720 --> 00:27:45,960
我走过空置的房屋和小农场，
Making my way past empty houses and crofts,

447
00:27:45,960 --> 00:27:50,360
来到一个可以俯瞰彭特兰湾的高点，
I come to a high point overlooking the Pentland Firth,

448
00:27:50,360 --> 00:27:54,120
湾内因潮汐流和漩涡而泛着点点白色。
which is speckled white with its tidal rips and whirlpools.

449
00:27:55,440 --> 00:27:57,880
斯特罗马岛可能已经荒废，
Stroma might be deserted,

450
00:27:57,880 --> 00:28:00,360
但它有重新住人的潜力。
yet it has the potential to be repopulated.

451
00:28:01,720 --> 00:28:07,040
具有讽刺意味的是，曾经将人们隔绝开来的
Ironically, the swirling tidal streams that once cut people off

452
00:28:07,040 --> 00:28:08,960
汹涌潮汐流未来可能会吸引人们前来。
could attract them in the future.

453
00:28:10,200 --> 00:28:15,320
斯特罗马岛周围狂野汹涌的水域是世界上最强大的水域之一，
The wild and turbulent waters around Stroma are amongst the most powerful

454
00:28:15,320 --> 00:28:20,280
这使得这座“急流中的岛屿”成为利用潮汐发电的
in the world, making this "island in the stream" a perfect location

455
00:28:20,280 --> 00:28:24,920
绝佳地点，如果实现的话，
for the generation of tidal power which, if it happens,

456
00:28:24,920 --> 00:28:30,000
将极大地让这座小岛接入21世纪。
will plug this tiny little island into the 21st century in a big way.

457
00:28:32,760 --> 00:28:36,080
我的下一次苏格兰群岛盛大之旅
My next Grand Tour of the Scottish Islands

458
00:28:36,080 --> 00:28:42,480
将带我前往西海岸和大西洋上的双生岛屿科尔岛和泰里岛。
takes me to the west coast and the Atlantic twins of Coll and Tiree.